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Toko Fukawa Cosplay Progress: Shirt and Sailor Collar – Video and Transkript

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Hello! It is I again. Back with a third cosplay video. It took me some time to get this done, since uni started in the meanwhile and … it’s not great. Not at all …
But you probably wouldn’t even have noticed, since I have been waiting to post these until I finished all of them, this one included.

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Today we’re going to be doing our third and last piece – Toko’s top as well as the sailor collar, which is detachable.

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I am a huge fan of detachable cosplay pieces. One big issue with cosplay is that it is a very sweaty hobby. It’s disgusting, really. And a lot of costumes can’t really go in the wash because of certain aspects and details. So I try to make as many parts washable as possible and try to construct my cosutmes as practically as possible.

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For this shirt I used an easy t-shirt pattern I already had. I don’t know if I mentioned and I am really not trying to shill anything but there’s this sewing magazine called Burda that was actually invented by a German housewife. It’s a monthly – I think – publication that comes with a bunch of patterns. They have this special magazine called Burda easy, which is specifically geared towards beginners. I try to collect those since their great for adapting into bigger things. The t-shirt pattern was taken from that magazine and altered a little.

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Mine has a little pocket added in, as well as a zipper in the back. The pattern doesn’t really have any darts, which usually shape garments and make them more 3D and is made for more of a stretchy fabric. I didn’t use one since I couldn’t find any fitting with the skirt’s fabric which on the other hand couldn’t be stretchy since it wouldn’t fall as nicely.
So zipper it was. Dammit boobs!

And mine has a bit more of a standing collar instead of a u-neck shaped neckline. Kinda by mistake but if anyone asked – obviously I intended to do so.
I also added the white ends to the sleeves insted of just hemming them, as well as some details like the patch on the arm and some more lace.

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Start by cutting out your pattern as well as your fabric. I cut into my backpiece where I wanted the zipper to go. Measure it first and be aware whether or not you want it to go into the collar or whether you want the collar to close separately both is cool.

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Follow the sewing instructions. Most tops start with creating the shoulder seams as well as the side seams of the bodice.
Then work your way through the side seams of your sleeves.

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Before I did the latter I first had to prep the ends, thoug.

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I still had some stretchy, ripped white fabric leftover. I took the cirumference of my wrists and added a couple of centimetres. I folded it, ironed it and closed the seams, fturnt it over and closed the piece. Looking back this was stupid. I should have probably worked them around the edges of the sleeves like I’d do with waistbands. Well: You live and you learn.

I then added black, slightly stretchy lace to it.

I also ruffled the edges of my sleeves a little to have a bit of a poofy effect. I then sewed it onto the sleeve and closed the sleeve side seam. I also used two different threads – one white one black, to accomodate both colours of my sleeves. So technically, we’re talking two seams here.

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I then added the sleeves onto the garment. This is still one of the things that are trickiest for me to do. Almost as bad as assembling pants … Pants are just weird.

I always have to pin it on and turn it to know whether or not I did it correctly. So if anyone knows something to make this easier please let me know.

Turn the shirt inside out, then go through one of the openings and pin the sleeves right side onto the shirts inside (which now is also the right side) and pin it.
It’s important that you allign the sleeves’ side seams with your shirts side seams as well.
Sew it on and clean it up, then turn your shirt back onto its outside.

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Take the piece you cut for the collar and attach it to the shirt just like you would a waistband. You can check out my videos on the skirt for reference.

Your goal is to keep the lose edge of your shirt tucked way in the collar-piece. I also added a little hook to close the collar separately.

Then hem the shirt.

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I now added the details, because – and I think we have established this very well by now – I am in fact stupid.
This would have been so much easier with the pieces still lying flat. But again: Live and learn. I should make this my mantra.

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First off: The lace at the bottom. Fairly easy. Just pin and sew it to the edge.

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Then the pocket. I cut a slit into the front size of my shirt.
Before I did that, though, I went on to prep the little pocket. I took two little pieces of leftover black fabric and added them onto the fabric, right where the slit is, then turnt them in, so that they’re on the inside now. Please not tthat the one added to the upper edge will have to be a little longer!
After that I first added the lace on the outside – so that I wouldn’t sew the pocket shut. I mean in the end it doesn’t really matter but I think I get some brownie points for trying!
I then did the side seams as well as th bottom seam of my little pocket. I also added a little metal button to the outside since if you look closely, Toko has this tiny emblem/button/pin added onto her shirt there.

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Last detail – The patch. Toko has her school logo stitched onto the side of her shirt.
For this I used a tiny piece of fabric I still had leftover from the sailor collar – I’ll get to it, I promise!

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I used a printed out version of the logo to make a sketch and then use this sketch as a stencil. Sadly I could only enlarge the logo to a certain degree so this is where it’s at.

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Using this stencil I cut out two pieces of fabric, as well as one piece of interfacing that I sandwhiched and ironed between them. Technically, I guess, you could do without it and by just using one layer of fabric but this gave it some nice grip.

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I then went around the edges of my patch in very small zig-zag stitches to give it a closed off edge and then sewed it on using the same technique. You should end up with a fairly clean patch.

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Now. The moment you have all been waiting for! The sailor collar. Honestly this seems like one of the most searche cosplay tutorials/patterns out there and it is actually super easy.

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I don’t have the pattern with me but I can go check for it the next time I get to my flat. It could take some time, though.
If I do so and end up managing to scan it. I can do so and I will probably upload it as a PDF on the blog. So keep an eye out for that. I’ll probably announce it on instagram and twitter as well. Or I might forget. Who knows.

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I started tracing the form I wanted on the doll and cut it out to create a pattern. I then cut out said pattern and ended up with to pieces of fabric.
Sew those onto each other but leave one seam open so you can turn it later. I also added a piece of interfacing between to keep it more stable.

Then turn it and close the last seam by tucking in the edges and slowly stitching it of with small stitches.
I then added the black lace I already added to the cuffs around the edge of my collar and added some hooks to close it off in the front
And there you go: A very simple yet stylisch sailor style collar.

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The red scarf was a pretty easy sew as well: I had some red crepe (I think) left over from my grandmother – You know I had to mention her at least once – cutour two triangular pieces, sewed them onto each other and turnt them.

I also fashioned a tiny sleeve to fashion around the scarf to close it. I used leftover black fabric, added two pieces onto another and added a layer of interfacing inbetween.
The whole thing can be added or taken off by closing some buttons added to the edges.

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So here we are. That’s the whole costume. I ordered a styled wig, whose braids I should actually redo at some point in the near future – and simplay wore my own glasses with it. A great advantage if you ask me.

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This was fun. I think. I liked breaking down my progess and might actually do so in the future … I have some other pieces lined up … I also have some other conceptual ideas I’d like to pursue but I have to manage time wise …

So far, I hope you enjoed this and I would love for you to check out my other social media or my blog, the links will obviously be left down below.

I’ll also link the entire playlist for this costume down below, just in case you missed anything or would like to look something up.

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Now that there is nothing left to say, I thank you for watching and will now return to my little corner of the world.

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