Here’s the video version of my Colourpop X Animal Crossing review. It’s honestly not just a makeup-review it also features me just waffling on about life ^^.
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Hey, hey, hey! Its’s me your geeky gal pal, finally back with a new entry to this blog. To be honest it has been way too long. I may come back to that and tell you about a couple of the things that have been happening … Spoiler Alert: It’s mainly depression and COVID-19 related.
But: I have to start somewhen and somewhere and so I’ve decided to pick this little hobby of mine back up and start writing somewhere and somewhen. And today’s the day!
I want to get back into a couple more thoughtful and deeper posts but to get started what better thing is there than a quick review off some cutesy looking makeup? I will confess: These review-esque type of things are a lot easier to write than the bigger, thoughtful and researched ones.
So: When I found out Colourpop had an Animal Crossing makeup Collection coming out I went for it, dug into my wallet (yup) and decided to get myself some new makeup.
Without further ado, I present to you: My thoughts on the Colourpop Animal Crossing makeup collaboration!
I wanna mention a couple of things: I didn’t buy the whole collection. Some things I wasn’t as interested in, others I simply didn’t think I needed. I already have enough makeup and should probably sort through some of that stuff so I don’t need to add to that. What I bought I got with my own money. Something I feel I should clarify given that that could change my genuine opinion on the brand and products.
I have also never bought anything off of Colourpop so I have no previous experience with the brand.
I also live in Germany so I am paying for and receiving my products through international shipping which may cost extra or may not be available throughout every country in the world.
What’s part of the Colourpop Animal Crossing makeup collection
All of these can be bought on the Colourpop website. At least that’s where I got them from. I suggest you always buy cosmetics straight from the original producer and seller or other qualified and trusted sources.
Please check beforehand, whether or not the ship to your destination and how much shipping may be!
Three lip tint sets, costing 12 USD each or 36 USD when all bought in one set.
Eye Shadow Palettes
Four adorable eye shadow palettes each inspired by different NPCs. One of these costs 12 USD or you can buy them in a set for 42 USD.
There’s two blushes available that each cost 12 USD or 24 USD as a set.
Super Shock Shadow and Glitter Shadow
Colourpops Animal Crossing Makeup Collection also includes one of their Shock Shadows as well as one Glitter Gel. Both can be bought indivudally for either 7 USD (Shadow) and 10 USD (Gel) or as a set for 17 USD.
What I got
As already mentioned I didn’t get the full collection … There’s several reasons for that:
A) I am not a Bellionaire or well … Billionaire since we’re using real life money.
B) There’s some products I am simply not impressed with … The Baloon Pop shadow for example looks kind of basic (I swear to god I have seen this shade of shimmery gold in at least 5 other collections before) and I am not willing to spend money on something that I don’t find super unique just because it has a very cute exterior.
C) I already have something similar. The blush tones are kind of basic again and well … I already have blushes in similar shades and I am not okay with paying extra and then not using it.
So what I ended up with were the four palettes, the Fruit Basket lip tint set and the Bellionaire Gel. Which is enough to get a rough overview of the collection and to get the products I really wanted. I am not talking about “needed” here because … let’s be honest: I don’t need any of this. I also didn’t wanna break my bank which no one should really ever do for makeup no matter how cute it is.
Looking back on it I probably could have done without the What a Hoot palette … Cause I rarly use brown-ish tones except for creating a base and blending a look into my face … but I’m kind of a huge fan of Blathers and Celeste and maybe this is inspiration enough to use these shades more … They also go really well with the Bellionaire glitter gel which is actually a type of product I have never used so it’s the thing I am most excited for.
I’m also not sure whether or not the Fruit Basket set was the best choice for my skin tone … But we’ll see.
What I think
What I liked
- long lasting
- very easy and colourful application
- Isabelle is one of my favourite shadows (and I secretly use it as a highlighter)
What I didn’t like
- What a hoot is a bit boring
- lip stains feel greasy
- lip stain smell
- Labelle of the Ball not very opaque
For more Info check the videos on my youtube!
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I know that I have not been the most active during the last couple of months but that does not mean that I haven’t been busy. Quite the opposite actually. But I might just save those tiny little details for a small catch-up-post.
I have uploaded some more videos on the channel, some smaller, some bigger and I will post the others shortly.
This one’s showing my process on an anime inspired facemask. As in #WearYourMask but also be a weeb at the same time.
I basically say it all in the video so I am going to shut up now and show you how you yourself can make Gin Akutagawa’s Facemask from Bungou Stray Dogs.
- Get some sewing supplies. You’ll need: Some scrap fabric of your choice. Honestly, the pattern will look good no matter what but if you want to stick with the reference you might chose something white to light grey-ish. Some thread befitting of your fabric. A wire to put into your mask and over your nose. Thread to tie behind your ears and wear the mask. I prefer to harvest the latter two from torn or broken masks I have lying around. You could use some jewelry wire but I’d recommend you glue of the ends so that they won’t stick out and irritate your skin.
- You can use my pattern but really don’t have to. The process that went into it is fairly simple: Just take a facemask you own and trace it onto a piece of paper. Then draw the strips and pattern onto it. Cut out the strips and use as a pattern on your fabric.
- Or print out my pattern. I’ll include a PDF down below. In the video I cut out the entire form and then transfer it onto my fabric. This was due to me originally trying to follow a different plan and switching gears halfway in. If you’re trying to do this I’d recommend cutting out each strip individually and them transferring it onto the fabric and then cut that out. That way you have a bit more leeway with your strips, because mine ended up being a little bit small. You can also always add more strips. Just think of where you wanna add one in trace the strip that would be closest to that position onto your fabric and add it in.
- The pattern also does not include the backside of the whole thing. The second layer is a) not obligatory and b) a bit varying in size given what stripp-y mess you’ll end up with. Simply do as I did and trace your finished front piece onto fabric and sew the pieces together. That way you can make sure you have the right size.
- Also: Whenever cutting fabric think to include a centimetre of seam allowance.
- Add together your pieces of fabric to create bigger strips. This part is a bit tricky so I’d recommend you check out the video with it’s visuals to make sure you do it right.
- Sew together the created strips. Make sure you lay them down first to know you’re getting the desired form.
- Add the side flaps to your main mask piece.
- Technically you could add wire and thread now or you could create a mask with two layers.
- Trace the created piece onto some fabric and cut it out.
- Add the wire to what will later be the inside of your backpiece. To do so simply take a strong needle and punch through the plastic wrapper and sew across the wire ends a little bit. If you used jewelry wire and glued of its sharp edges you can punch your needle through the gluey parts instead. This gives the fabric something to hold onto.
- Pin front and back piece right on right, add the ends of your threads to the designated pieces of your mask and sew along the edges. Make sure you leave one edge open to flip the whole thing inside out, when done.
- Finish up the last seam and wear.
Here’s the pattern
Piece 1 is the left side of the mask, piece 2 the right sight and piece three is the side flaps. You’ll need to cut two of the first two and two of the latter.
Hello! It is I again. Back with a third cosplay video. It took me some time to get this done, since uni started in the meanwhile and … it’s not great. Not at all …
But you probably wouldn’t even have noticed, since I have been waiting to post these until I finished all of them, this one included.
Today we’re going to be doing our third and last piece – Toko’s top as well as the sailor collar, which is detachable.
I am a huge fan of detachable cosplay pieces. One big issue with cosplay is that it is a very sweaty hobby. It’s disgusting, really. And a lot of costumes can’t really go in the wash because of certain aspects and details. So I try to make as many parts washable as possible and try to construct my cosutmes as practically as possible.
For this shirt I used an easy t-shirt pattern I already had. I don’t know if I mentioned and I am really not trying to shill anything but there’s this sewing magazine called Burda that was actually invented by a German housewife. It’s a monthly – I think – publication that comes with a bunch of patterns. They have this special magazine called Burda easy, which is specifically geared towards beginners. I try to collect those since their great for adapting into bigger things. The t-shirt pattern was taken from that magazine and altered a little.
Mine has a little pocket added in, as well as a zipper in the back. The pattern doesn’t really have any darts, which usually shape garments and make them more 3D and is made for more of a stretchy fabric. I didn’t use one since I couldn’t find any fitting with the skirt’s fabric which on the other hand couldn’t be stretchy since it wouldn’t fall as nicely.
So zipper it was. Dammit boobs!
And mine has a bit more of a standing collar instead of a u-neck shaped neckline. Kinda by mistake but if anyone asked – obviously I intended to do so.
I also added the white ends to the sleeves insted of just hemming them, as well as some details like the patch on the arm and some more lace.
Start by cutting out your pattern as well as your fabric. I cut into my backpiece where I wanted the zipper to go. Measure it first and be aware whether or not you want it to go into the collar or whether you want the collar to close separately both is cool.
Follow the sewing instructions. Most tops start with creating the shoulder seams as well as the side seams of the bodice.
Then work your way through the side seams of your sleeves.
Before I did the latter I first had to prep the ends, thoug.
I still had some stretchy, ripped white fabric leftover. I took the cirumference of my wrists and added a couple of centimetres. I folded it, ironed it and closed the seams, fturnt it over and closed the piece. Looking back this was stupid. I should have probably worked them around the edges of the sleeves like I’d do with waistbands. Well: You live and you learn.
I then added black, slightly stretchy lace to it.
I also ruffled the edges of my sleeves a little to have a bit of a poofy effect. I then sewed it onto the sleeve and closed the sleeve side seam. I also used two different threads – one white one black, to accomodate both colours of my sleeves. So technically, we’re talking two seams here.
I then added the sleeves onto the garment. This is still one of the things that are trickiest for me to do. Almost as bad as assembling pants … Pants are just weird.
I always have to pin it on and turn it to know whether or not I did it correctly. So if anyone knows something to make this easier please let me know.
Turn the shirt inside out, then go through one of the openings and pin the sleeves right side onto the shirts inside (which now is also the right side) and pin it.
It’s important that you allign the sleeves’ side seams with your shirts side seams as well.
Sew it on and clean it up, then turn your shirt back onto its outside.
Take the piece you cut for the collar and attach it to the shirt just like you would a waistband. You can check out my videos on the skirt for reference.
Your goal is to keep the lose edge of your shirt tucked way in the collar-piece. I also added a little hook to close the collar separately.
Then hem the shirt.
I now added the details, because – and I think we have established this very well by now – I am in fact stupid.
This would have been so much easier with the pieces still lying flat. But again: Live and learn. I should make this my mantra.
First off: The lace at the bottom. Fairly easy. Just pin and sew it to the edge.
Then the pocket. I cut a slit into the front size of my shirt.
Before I did that, though, I went on to prep the little pocket. I took two little pieces of leftover black fabric and added them onto the fabric, right where the slit is, then turnt them in, so that they’re on the inside now. Please not tthat the one added to the upper edge will have to be a little longer!
After that I first added the lace on the outside – so that I wouldn’t sew the pocket shut. I mean in the end it doesn’t really matter but I think I get some brownie points for trying!
I then did the side seams as well as th bottom seam of my little pocket. I also added a little metal button to the outside since if you look closely, Toko has this tiny emblem/button/pin added onto her shirt there.
Last detail – The patch. Toko has her school logo stitched onto the side of her shirt.
For this I used a tiny piece of fabric I still had leftover from the sailor collar – I’ll get to it, I promise!
I used a printed out version of the logo to make a sketch and then use this sketch as a stencil. Sadly I could only enlarge the logo to a certain degree so this is where it’s at.
Using this stencil I cut out two pieces of fabric, as well as one piece of interfacing that I sandwhiched and ironed between them. Technically, I guess, you could do without it and by just using one layer of fabric but this gave it some nice grip.
I then went around the edges of my patch in very small zig-zag stitches to give it a closed off edge and then sewed it on using the same technique. You should end up with a fairly clean patch.
Now. The moment you have all been waiting for! The sailor collar. Honestly this seems like one of the most searche cosplay tutorials/patterns out there and it is actually super easy.
I don’t have the pattern with me but I can go check for it the next time I get to my flat. It could take some time, though.
If I do so and end up managing to scan it. I can do so and I will probably upload it as a PDF on the blog. So keep an eye out for that. I’ll probably announce it on instagram and twitter as well. Or I might forget. Who knows.
I started tracing the form I wanted on the doll and cut it out to create a pattern. I then cut out said pattern and ended up with to pieces of fabric.
Sew those onto each other but leave one seam open so you can turn it later. I also added a piece of interfacing between to keep it more stable.
Then turn it and close the last seam by tucking in the edges and slowly stitching it of with small stitches.
I then added the black lace I already added to the cuffs around the edge of my collar and added some hooks to close it off in the front
And there you go: A very simple yet stylisch sailor style collar.
The red scarf was a pretty easy sew as well: I had some red crepe (I think) left over from my grandmother – You know I had to mention her at least once – cutour two triangular pieces, sewed them onto each other and turnt them.
I also fashioned a tiny sleeve to fashion around the scarf to close it. I used leftover black fabric, added two pieces onto another and added a layer of interfacing inbetween.
The whole thing can be added or taken off by closing some buttons added to the edges.
So here we are. That’s the whole costume. I ordered a styled wig, whose braids I should actually redo at some point in the near future – and simplay wore my own glasses with it. A great advantage if you ask me.
This was fun. I think. I liked breaking down my progess and might actually do so in the future … I have some other pieces lined up … I also have some other conceptual ideas I’d like to pursue but I have to manage time wise …
So far, I hope you enjoed this and I would love for you to check out my other social media or my blog, the links will obviously be left down below.
I’ll also link the entire playlist for this costume down below, just in case you missed anything or would like to look something up.
Now that there is nothing left to say, I thank you for watching and will now return to my little corner of the world.
Hey! It’s my again! Aka Lilly aka @mupfinsmiley on Instagram. In my first video – So exciting, I know! – I tried to showcase my progress on of of my latest cosplays: Toko Fukawa from Danganronpa.
I started off showing you how I made an underskirt to be worn under this and when needed under other costumes as well.
Today we’re gonna be working on the second layer: The overskirt.
I always like making skirts since they’re easy and you can get amazing looking results with few frustrations and little effort. It eneables me to get into some sort of meditative trance really quickly and I do enjoy that so much. I also just love flowy fabrics … It’s really weird since it’s not at all what I usually wear in my day to day life.
This one is an almost florlength pleated skirt and therefore a bit harder to make than the ruffled one from before.
The concept is still the same, though: Take a long piece of fabric, shorten one edge by folds or ruffles and have it fit tight on top but be flowy near the edge.
It is incredibly important that you work correctly and precicely; even moreso than with other sewing projects; since every mistake will show in the pleats later.
As with the underskirt: I always cut and zigzag the seams for cleanup and pin right on right unless specifically stated otherwise. You should also always work with seam allowance.
Also similarl to the other skirt: You’ll need a long rectangular piece of fabric and a smaller strap for the waistband.
What you can see here are 4 meters of fabric with a width of 1,40. We will obviously shorten the hem (even thoug a huge drape would have been cool) later. It later turnt out that I wouldn’t need all of it to fit my waist but I wanted to be safe rather than sorry.
This is probably the most important steps in making a pleated skirt: Actually making the pleats. I know: Shocking.
Before we can actually make the pleads, we’ll have to mark them off on our fabric.
I laid my cut fabric down flat and aligned my tape measure with it. I then marked off my folds. There’s two measurments to take into consideration here: the depth of your fold – this is the fabric that will later be tucked away within the fold – and the width – this is the amount of fabric that will later be seen on the outside.
My measure were 7 for depth and 4 for width. You can adjust that to whatever skirt you’d want to make and have bigger or smaller pleats.
It’s pleating time. This is pretty much what we’re gonna do instead of ruffling this time. It is a little hard to describe but I am going to try anyways. Please look at the video segment for further clarity.
Fold the segment you marked off as fold depth in half. You should now automatically have what you marked off as width lay on top of that. Pin it.
Do that with all of your folds until you’re done. This is again very time consuming but I find it to be really realxing for some reason.
May I just say how cool this looks? I’m going to have to go into pleated skirt mass production just so I can do this again and see it again. I think it’s just so satisfying! But I feel like I’d never wear it … And I wouldn’t reall know what to do with the other ones …
Anyways: Iron those pleats flat so that they’ll stay in position when you sew them on.
Do exactely that. Sew along the folded edge to secure the pleats.
Next thing we’re doing is the side-seam.
But wait; there’s more: Since I put a zipper in this one, so I only pinned and the stitched up parts of the side seam.
I’m not sure how long my zipper was. I have gotten a huge bag of leftovers from my grandmother a while back so whenever I need something I look there. It’s what I did with this zipper. It’s a really nice way of lowering/keeping costs down on cosplay. Plan your materials and see if you can reuse things.
So: I pinned on the zipper, then pin the rest of the side down to later put into the side seam.
Zippers are a little tricky but weirdly they’re one of my favourite things to sew on.
Youll want to fold in your fabric edges and pin them onto each side of the zipper. I usually open the zipper for this part since I find it easier to work with a little space inbetween.
Sew the sideseam up to where your zipper is.
Sew on the zipper. Again: Zippers are tricky. Sewing machines usually come with with a specific foot (the little metal thing that pushes down your fabric) for this. I didn’t use mine. Shame on me. But since I am actually quite good at zippers – I know, I know – I find it way to much work to switch out the foot… I just went ahed with it and did my thing. Don’t be me. And – as with the hem – don’t tell my grandma.
What’s important is that you dont get the zipper’s teeth caught up under the needle. As soon as there’s some fabric caught within them your whole zipper is useless.
It’s time to do the waistband. Now, since there was no hard-ish elastic to give it some form this time, I cut out some fleece interfacing and ironed it on.
I noticed that my waistband was way too long. You’ll always want it to be a little longer than your waistsize so you can add a button and a button hole to close it, but it doesn’t really need to be double your waist. So I cut the excess off.
It’s always good to test out whether your garment actually fits sporadically.
To those of you who are not familiar: This is a specific kind of fabric that’ll reinforce your pieces and give them some form. It’s usually put into collars or waistbands to make them hold up better.
It has some sort of glue – please don’t quizz me on textile science – on one sides that will actuvate when warmed up and therefore stick to any fabric.
I then also folded the waistband in half and ironed that fold.
Next, I just closed the shorter ends of the waistband and cleaned them up.
You’ll notice: We’re doing things a little bit differently this time.
Pin one side of the incredibly long pocket you just created onto the skirt and sew it on. Fold over, tuck the edge in, pin it and sew it on again. Try to stay close to the first seam so it doesn’t show too much.
I also added some little hooks to the protruding end instead of using a button. Tokos costume doesn’t really have one so it felt a little flashy to add one. This seemed like a covert option to close the waist.
You should probably lay them out first and pin them as to noz sew them on the wrong way. You’ll also have to do this part by hand. I’m really sorry.
I then shortened the hem. The original piece of fabric was way to long.
I cut into the fabric and then tore the unneccessary fabric right off. Don’t do this, if you’re not super sure in what you’re doing!
You’ll also always want to cut a few centimeters lower than your final hem is supposed to be.
I always keep excess and leftover fabric – especially if it’s that much – since I may use it in later projects, even if it’s just for some small details or patches.
Stop. Hemming time.
Please kill me.
But seriously: Hemming time. You’ll want to fold over the edge of your fabric twice and pin it on like that. This is harder than it seems and usually very time consuming. A lot of my garments go unhemmed until it is absolutely and definetely time too hem them since I don’t really like doing it too much.
But it’s still worth it.
I then ironed it, so that it will then stay flat for sewing.
As if mentioned in the first video: I usually go for a lazy hem. Normally you’d do it by hand by using very small and light stitches.
I just threw it under the machine and sewed along the edges.
Toko’s skirt has those white stripes along the bottom as well as on her shirt. I got a lot of lace from my grandmother and I found this really cute white heart lace amongst it. There was also so much of it left!
Since Toko is the Ultimate Romance Novelist it just felt fitting to use it on her skirt.
I really like altering cosplays like this. It may not fit the original image of the character 100% but it feels very individualistic and „me“. I can be creative and add something more, that’ll make the result better. It’s also a detail you probably won’t notice unless you get to see it up front or know about it. I myself like looking out for little things like this. I can’t really explain, it just makes me feel warm and fuzzy.
I added two rows of the lace. Pinned them onto the flat-laying fabric and sewed them on with white thread.
You may or may not have noticed in those little snippets that I hadn’t done the sideseam yet. It was a bit hard for me to piece this back together since it’s been some time since I filmed it.
I remembered that I did the hem twice since I had to shorten it later.
For the sake of understanding and clarity I decided to cut that out and streamline the video a little. I also decided to put the sequences in the order I’d usually make a skirt like that it.
I remember changing in up a little since I wanted to pin the lace on a flat surface. It’s doable after putting the skirt together as well, though. So in the end it doesn’t really matter. I just wanted to put in that little disclaimer.
There’s your skirt. It’s all done!
Thank you so much for watching the second part of this little series! I hope I was able to explain it all nicely and you got a good look into my – messy, I’ll agree – process.
Please leave your feedback down below – I appreaciate tips and tricks and getting to know your process as well. In case you want to see the whole costume assembled have a look at my instagram @mupfinsmiley or my other social media accounts. I will of course leave them down below.
Next time we’ll tackle the top. Until then: Stay healthy, drink some water and have a beautiful day!
Hi! My name is Lilly and you may or may not know me from my Cosplay Instagram @MupfinSmiley and/or may blog … Let’s be honest. You probably don’t. Because there’s like barely 250 people on there … And I love every single one of them!
Well … Enough about that. In case it isn’t obvious: I’m a tad bit anxious to be on camera. But here’s the thing: That’ll only go away if I make myself be on camera more.
So, I’ve been wanting to do that for a while now. You see, I’m in a Media Studies course at my Uni and we do have some practical classes. Being on camera, operating one and editing footage will sooner or later be something I’ll have to deal with. In fact I already had too … So why not do my own little project in form of this channel?
Well, as I’ve mentioned: I’m a cosplayer. A cosplay who now, given the current Self-Quarantine-Situation, has too much time and not enough to do to finally got herself to film this. Still nervous, but that’s ok.
I’m with my parents right now, so this is probably not what’s gonna be my later setup but that’s ok. Just testing the waters.
To slowly dip mee feet deeper into these untested waters, I filmed the progess on one of my recent cosplays to kinda lead you through the progress. Not the most original idea? Maybe. But we’re still testing the waters, remember?
So: We’re gonna be working on the Underskirt for my Toko Fukawa Cosplay. Nothing big, nothing special. Something even a beginner could pull off.
Usually I’d probably line the overskirt but this was far easier and not so bulky, plus way more flexible. I could wear the skirt normally and without the underskirt and I can use the underskirt for other projects later.
I used a simply lining fabric in black which I still had leftover, black thread (obviously) and an elastic to pull through the waist.
As for the skirt itself: Its a pretty simple rectangular ruffle skirt.
This is probably the most basik way to make a piece of clothing, so if you’re just starting out with making any kind of clothing yourself – not just cosplay – try making one yourself. Just use a light, flowing fabric, so the ruffles fall nicely.
Start by cutting out the pieces. For a simple skirt like this, you’ll only need a big rectangular piece, or – as in my case two smaller pieces, which you’ll add together for it to get a big one. The whole piece should be a t least twice your waistsize, maybe thrice, depending on how poof you’d want the end result to be.
You’ll also want to safe a little piece of fabric for the waistband. I took my elastic and cut a piece twice its width. Both the elastic and this piece of fabric should be as long as your waist.
Don’t forget to add about 1 to 2cms to each measurements. You’ll lose a little space through the seams later.
I then pinned the two pieces together on what will later be one of the side seams aka „the short side“. You’ll wanna pin all of your pieces right on right or as I like to call it „pretty side on pretty side“ since you’ll want your seams to later be on the inside of the garment. It doesn’t really matter with a plain fabric like this one but it’s important in case you’re using a patterned fabric or you have some details on the front of your piece.
This is a pretty basic rule of sewing and it’s usually how I pin and then sew things together, so I don’t really feel the need to say that everytime I do it.
I then went on to sew the two pieces together. I usually have my stitch length somewhere between one and two. Smaller stitches make for cleaner seams and may stop the fabric from ruffling up around them. We’re gonna take advantage of the whole ruffling thing, later on though!
I also always clean up my seams afterwards. I cut off the excess fabric – that way the seams don’t seem so bulky on the outside – and zigzag along the sides. That way all of those lose little threads that may seperate from the fabric can’t really do that and your seam wont break open in the washing machine.
Now: This feels like as good a point as any to point something out: I am in no way a professional. I don’t make clothes, patterns or adjustments for a living. This is simply my way of doing things and the way I have either learnt or taught myself or just adjusted to my personal needs.
My mom sews for a hobby and my grandmother used to be a seamstress so I get some of my information from their sage advice, yet there are some things in my process which we will not tell my grandmother about. They may cost me my inheritence and or my life.
This is one of those things. Technically she taught me to zigzag your cut pieces of fabric before you pin or sew anything. You’d the iron apart the seams and clean them up individually. The reason is stil the same: You don’t want all of the work to be for nothing as soon as you wash the garment.
Since I don’t wash cosplays particularly often (if at all. Though I try to keep it as cleanable as possible) this’ll do.
Ok. Forging on: You will then have to take the long side of your rectangle and sew a long line along the edge. Put your stitch length on a higher setting beforehand, though. I’d recommend 4 or up. Do that twice, close together.
Don’t cut the threads off to short.
I also zigzag that edge as well, though you don’t need to yet. It’s gonna be held within the waistband later anyways.
Remember how I said we’re gonna take advantage of high stitch length and seam ruffling later? Well, now’s the time: You will now be able to pull and ruffle the fabric up on that one piece of thread like a curtain on a rod.
This is very time consuming, so don’t be frustrated, it’ll just take some time. Be careful and take it slow, so the thread doesn’t rip. In case it does: Don’t fred: That’s why we did the whole thing twice. That way you have a thread to fall back on in case one tears. If both do: You’ll just have to repeat the process. It’s ok. It happens. Often.
Done? Yes. Great. I wasn’t sure as to how much I needed to ruffle the skirt to then reach my waistsize so I put it up on the doll – my trusted and beloved Delores – and adjusted it. I the pinned the other sideseam.
Sew and clean it up, like you did the other one.
Next thing on or to-do-list is the waistband. This might be the most dificult thing for beginners to do, but I am very sure anyone will manage!
You can – and should – iron it first. I didn’t. I did that way to late and it shows a little.
Take your waistband, fold it in half by length and iron it flat. That way pinning it on will be a little easier.
Don’t forget to turn your stitch length down again!
I am usually a little careful with leftover fabric, especially if it’s for lining, since I don’t know the exact blend. Lining usuall has a lot of artificial fibres in it so it might shrink or melt when ironing. Test that out beforehand on a leftover piece and put your iron the lowest heat possible.
Start out on the outer side of your skirt and pin your waistband on there. Remember: Right side on right side.
Sew it on.
Now on to the kind-of-but-really-not-so-hard part: Fold it over – or make use of your ironed fold – and then tuck the fabric edge in again by about 1cm. Pin it down like that.
Sew it on.
You should now have a little tunnel on the upper side of your skirt.
Iron that tunnel. Even if you already did so before. It’ll make the next part easier.
Take your elastic. In case you’re wondering: Yes I switched mine out. I don’t quite remember why but I think it just had something to do with the colour. I found a black one which would fit a lot better.
Take a safety pin and pin it on the end of your elastic. This will help you thread it through the elastic. I don’t know if I mentioned but the elastic should be roughly as long as your waistsize. It’s ok for it to be a little shorter, since it’ll stretch and you’ll gain a little through that.
This part is a little fidgety: You’ll have to pull your elastic through the little tunnel you just created. Try and keep your hand on the saftey pin and guide it through. The elastic also shouldn’t twist while you do so.
I then went on to sew the two ends of the elastic together, tucked in the edges of the tunnel and sewed them on like that as well.
The last thing you’ll have to do is hem your skirt. I forgot to film this part but you’ll hopefully see the process in the next video. It’s the same process for the overskirt.
You’ll tuck in the edge, twice and sew it on. This is one of those things we’re not going to tell my grandma about cause it’s kind of lazy and improper … If you’re really going for that A+ you’ll wanna do that by hand and use very small, close together, light stitches. As you can imagine: It takes forever and I hate doing it.
It’s also best to pin the hem on a doll or on a person wearing it. It’s important for it to be the same length everywhere. So: If you can: Get yourself some help for this part.
Since I am very sure that most of you didn’t stupidly tear a whole into their project this part is probably optional: I had to fix up some minor holes in my skirt. I just took out some black emproidery thread and stitched it over. You can’t really see it in the final project, since it hides nicely among the folds. And also: There’s another skirt over it.
In case something like this happens to you: First off: It’s ok. Mistakes are an essential part of learning. Secondly: You can also actually emproider little flowers on and make the mistakes visible, if you want to. I think it’s a nice way of turning a mistake into a unique detail.
And: You’re done. There’s your skirt. It’s really easy to do and versatile.
I hope this wasn’t to awkward and I got to explain everything in a nice and understandable way.
I’m always open to suggestions and especially tips, since this is a first for me.
I’ll try and upload the other parts of this cosplay as soon as possible.
In the meantime: I’d be very greatful if any of you would check out my social media – you can also check out whole cosplay there – and the blog. It’s a pretty mixed bunch and I will of course put the links in the description down below.
I’ll also try and post the transcript of the video either down below or on the blog for those of you who find it easier to work with written instructions.
As for me: I am going back into quarantine hibernation now. Thank you for watching and have a great day!
Last week I posted a post about Black-owned online stores. Given the current events I think it is important to stand with the black community as well as black creators. So I went back into research mode and found some cute Black-Owned Etsy stores you can support right now!
Etsy is usually where smaller creators can sell their wares so you’ll be supporting genuine small business plus you’ll get some truly unique pieces.
But, I’ve been talking for too long again, so with no further ado: Some Black-Owned Etsy stores to support right now.
Disclaimer: Technically I have to mark this off as an ad. It’s not. I’m not getting paid, I just did some research and wanted to do a good thing.
Local Colour Co
Colour isn’t just in the name, it’s also in the product: This masai inspired beaded jewellery is just amazing. I don’t think it would look very good on my but I still admire the artistry that goes into it. I sometimes make jewellery for fun so I know how much work goes into these pieces.
Owusua by Adwoa
Still need a face mask? You’re late to the game but why not get yours here. Apart from that this store also sells appareal as well as some really colourful fabrics which are printed by order. I’d love to order some but the shipping is (understandably!) high and I am still out on it …
Another jewellery store: This one sells cute 80ies-ish polymer clay and resin earrings. Sadly the ones I had my eye on sold out so I’m just gonna have to wait for a new pair to tickle my fancy.
I think the print on this t-shirt says it all.
Cute, creepy and freaky clay-made jewellery. I admire this sellers creativity! I am certain you’ll get a truly unique piece at this store.
Hearts and Hearts
Since I am a fan of vintage I thought I should include a vintage store. Hearts and Hearts sells vintage an pre-loved pieces and has a pretty cute selection. Of course that changes ever so often so you’ll have to check in once or twice.
Temp Loves Crafts
Do you love penpalling and bulletjournaling as much as I do? Well this shop might be for you! As I’ve mentioned before I don’t really need anything right now since I am drowning in stickers but in case you’re just starting your collection pay this shop a visit!
A small but incredibly cute store that sells all things kawaii – shirts, purses, keychains. I am certain you’ll find something.
Pho by Mo
Looking for a way to decorate your room? Why not try photography? Specifically the photography of Morgan from Pho by Mo. Their photography is hauntingly beautiful.
Also! There’s currently a #BlackLivesMatter photoseries up on their shop so check that out!
Nitz by Nat
Looking for more colourfull additions to your closet? Why not try out Nitz by Nat. They mainly sell hoops and headdresses inspired by african prints and they are truly beautiful.
Art can take so many forms, so I added this store which sells ceramics.
Not a fan of photography or ceramics? Then check out Lovely Earthlings: This store sells beautiful female and black inspired graphics and art. You can get cute prints or totes as well as cards and notebooks.
RHYII by Richele
Now I noticed that I didn’t really add any hair care brands to my last list as well as this one? Like I have skincare and make up but nothing hair care related so I wanted to change that.
This store sells exactely that but with a focus on black natural and curly hair. Not really a product for me but an important addition. Plus their design is really cute.
Mocha Design Studio
More clothing and appareal. This store sells minimalistic print designs with social and activist messages.
Looking for something more extraordinary? rktikekt sells really cute graphic leather goods, as well as some jewellery, homewares and some accessories. I really like their graphic and simplistic designs.
One thing I wanted to specifically highlight were their cute little cable tacos.
Awww! I store I was really happy to find! Pride Lips sells LGBTQIA+ inspired lipgloss tubes! They are so adorable and glittery and I kind of want to own them all.
Another one of my favourite finds: A black owned lolita store. as with Decora I feel like black people are usually excluded from subcultures and that is just awfull! There is nothing greater than a diverse community because everybody gets to add their own to a concept and I idea and that’s what drives it forward.
So shops like these are real treasures and should be treated as such.
So for the ones amongst you who are more into having a personal touch to their shopping this were some black-owned Etsy stores.
I usually don’t order off of Etsy very often since shipping can get horrendous and I’ve found that most stores are located overseas. If that doesn’t bother you or you are actually from the same country, please consider supporting these wonderful creators!
For some more info:
I hope you enjoyed this post and that I was able to shine a light on some black-owned online stores. I have certainly found many new ones and I think I learnt something today.
I’ve also added some other ressources here down below in case you want to do more than just support specific people.
Thank you so much for reading! Stay safe!
People have been putting up Youtube videos that you can run in the background to then donate the ad revenue:
Here’s one by @KRISTINISANGRY on twitter:
Here’s one by @glossedchaos on tumblr:
Here’s mine that I like to keep updated:
Or not happy with the given charities?
Hey! Those of you following me on social media (or knowing me IRL) may have noticed that I have been promoting itch.io’s “Racial Justice and Equality” Bundle … There’s no real reason behind it except that I actually like the idea and it’s something I want to support. You get a massive amount of games, engines, assets, pnps and so much more for 5$ or more and all of the proceeds will be donated to Black Lives Matter!
And as gamers we have a huge problem of racism, sexism and homophobia within our community (mostly with mainstream following people I feel like … The indie scene seems so much more chill) so anything that promotes a different view is welcome here!
So as a way to promote this: I thought I’d just play through a couple of games from the bundle. I am a bit nervous to show this to you, though … It’s a bit embarassing. But all for the greater good, right? The offer ends in 4 or 3 days so go on over there now!
So, without further ado, heres my Let’s Play – Dungeons and Lesbians (Great Title, I know. I always though the perfect title doesn’t exist but here it is)
Please check out all the other ways you can help!
People have been putting up Youtube videos that you can run in the background to then donate the ad revenue:
Here’s one by @KRISTINISANGRY on twitter:
Here’s one by @glossedchaos on tumblr: